Kyoto 2018: Love and modern art in the geisha district

It was a long and uphill walk in the blazing Sunday sunshine to Kiyomizu-dera, the UNESCO-listed Buddhist temple in eastern Kyoto, but the breeze was blowing and everyone seemed to be hurrying in the same direction, so I bought myself a Hokkaido milk-and-matcha ice cream cone and enjoyed the leisurely climb.

Was just thrilled to have someplace to visit after being cooped up in the neighborhood yesterday, you know? Particularly if it was a temple that contained the Jishu shrine – dedicated to luck in finding *ehem* love. (Don’t judge me.)

But honestly, walking the streets of a new city, exchanging pleasantries with the locals – that sense of discovery, of making tiny cross-cultural connections, is one of the best feelings in the world, and this was why I always liked being someplace different on my birthday. Last year it was Paris, and the year before that was Vienna, and who knew where the next one would be?

I was in a jubilant mood as I bounced through the gates.

It isn’t a place one goes to for serenity, not today, but the views – when I managed to squeeze myself onto the decks – were magnificent, and the rare crowd-free photo can be managed with a mad scramble and International Tourist Sign Language for Can you please take my picture?

Later on I found a small patch of sun-speckled green with nobody around so that became my time-out corner.

My phone beeped; it was a video of one of my Tier 1 friends singing Happy Birthday.

Aw, you’re the sweetest, I said. Even if you do look hungover.

I’m recovering from a nasty flu, so even sweeter, right?

Lol. Always so grateful for friends like these. The older one gets, the more people one sheds; so those who remain are real.

On my way back down, I got sidetracked into browsing all those pottery stores, with every exquisitely lacquered tea pot winking at me to take it home, and if I had been prepared to transport those delicate beauties I would have probably bought more than one. But I wasn’t.

Distinctly Yayoi Kusama

Mom and Aunt B arrived from Osaka in the afternoon, and we found the Forever Museum of Contemporary Art tucked discreetly away in historic Gion, which I’d been meaning to go to because of its Yayoi Kusama collection.

Together we walked through room upon room of bold, vibrant art that acquired an altogether different character when viewed within the context of the artist’s life.

They’re so pretty, and they come from a place of pain, I told another one of my friends later. I can relate to that.

Next stop was the Yasaka Shrine, which okay, I will admit to visiting specifically because it was said to be home to ‘Kyoto’s greatest spiritual love spot’ (!) Again, don’t judge me for seeking divine intervention in more belief systems than one. 😅

As twilight settled we soaked up Gion’s atmosphere; the lanterns coming to life, illuminating Hanami-koji’s many preserved machiya houses and chaya.

There were far more tourists garbed in kimonos than geiko or maiko to be seen, and certainly no samurai ghosts (the leader of the famous 47 ronin of the 18th century shogunate was said to be a regular at the Ichiriki Chaya), but it was an unforgettable experience nonetheless, to be treasured carefully.

Birthday dinner

The day ended with a terrific dinner in one of those cosy restaurants that only had three tables at most; I splurged on duck, Mum and Aunt B brought chocolate cake (so sweet!), and that wasn’t even the nicest thing they did for me that day.

They dropped me off at my flat and I told them I was going to look for a pharmacy because by then I fet like coming down with the flu, but also that they shouldn’t stick around because they had a long drive back to Osaka and it was late.

So there I was, eyes glued to Google Maps and ‘pharmacies near me’ search results, going around the neighborhood trying to find one that was still open, collar turned up, hat and scarf on, when suddenly a van pulled up beside me.

It was Mom and Aunt B to the rescue, their driver (a local) having secured the correct Japanese medication. Would work like magic, they assured me. *tears up*

Romantic love may be an abyss (with a Balrog skulking in the depths) but the love of family is a sanctuary.

In the end, I was happy to have spent my birthday in typical style: with a little solo wandering, plenty of art and history, a delicious meal, and lots of ❤️.