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August 27, 2024

Sri Lanka: Nuwara Eliya’s green gold

Today we are onboard the iconic sky blue train as it puffs stoically up the highlands. Malachite forests roll serenely past, gradually making way for the sweeping tea-bush laden hills of the fabled gardens rising out of the grey mist. It truly is one of the world's great train journeys.

June 20, 2024

Sri Lanka: Kandy, the city on the hill

Kandy Lake lies just outside, wearing a soft fine mist over its silvery surface and a rippling parapet wall curving around it like a cloud. A royal bathing pavilion on the shore had been built for Kandyan queens, and has found a second life as a much more prosaic police post.

December 10, 2021

Cà phê sữa đá and vibes (part 3)

I'm not the same, not after you was the refrain of the song that soundtracked my last week; not after life in this town, not after the friends made, and certainly not after those unexpected connections, some so last-minute they were very nearly missed.

November 7, 2021

Cà phê sữa đá and vibes (part 1)

So we have come to the end of three years' worth of dispatches from Danang, and I'm still not sure how I made it. It may be due to copious amounts of coffee; likely it is the assortment of strangers who were curious, helpful, kind or all of the above. Here are a few stories.